Linguine with Chickpeas and Calamari

A lot of the new dishes that are tried out in kitchens are the result of a lack of imagination by the cook. Not a lack of culinary imagination, no, not that. Rather, the inability to imagine a flavour combination that is described in a new recipe. This is the case for me, and some friends as well.

When I hear a new recipe, and simply cannot imagine how the various flavors work together, but I know I adore all the dish's components (although, there are few tastes that I don't adore), it must be made.

Late one night, watching an Italian cooking show (my preferred method of learning the language) there was a segment on Linguine con ceci e calamaretti. The title seemed reasonable, but then I saw rosemary on the chef's counter. Really? Rosemary and calamari? Hmmmm...intrigue was set. A friend made it for me later that week, and I was amazed. The chickpeas are blended together with lemon juice to create a creamy base in which to coat the linguine, and no cream! And the rosemary danced between brightening up the chickpeas, and bringing out the calamari's bold side.

This week, I made the dish as part of an Italian dinner evening for some Czech friends. We started by sipping a Czech interpretation of the Italian spritz  (read: bigger and stronger), the classic caprese starter, the trendy ribboned zucchini salad, and the stage was then set for this simple, easy, yet slightly exotic pasta to wow. And it did. And it was eaten with much gusto.

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A Simple Salmon Laksa

A storm was making it's way through the southern villages of Czech Republic last Tuesday night. Luckily, we had soup. Not just any soup, but Laksa: a softly spicy, fragrant, Malaysian noodle soup. I hadn't thought of this soup since I was last in New Zealand, where it's made with some frequency, and most kiwis will tell you it's Indonesia's most appreciated contribution to their islands. Sources cite Malaysia as the country of origin, but also Indonesia and Singapore. Whatever the case, the influences are clear on the palate - a bit South-East Asian, a bit Chinese, and appreciated by all.

It reminds me of an incredibly tasty soup made last year, with shrimp and zucchini, but was much more involved due to the long infusion the spices had in the broth. This version, adapted from an 'express' cookbook makes a very tasty broth with less time by NOT chopping the lemongrass and straining it out, but simply giving it a few good whacks to bruise the stalks, and letting them steep whole. The flavour still gets into the broth, but with less time and effort. 
 
Baby bok choy is used, mainly because it just looks so cute while waiting on the counter-top, but the full sized variety would do just fine. We took heed from the Italians here as well, as the garlic is left whole, and scooped out at the end, as to not overpower.

This is a soup of soft, well-blended flavours, and only spicy if you want to add in the chili peppers at the end. It's a work-night favourite of my good friend who made it, as I saw the note 'Awesome!' scribbled in the corner of the recipe. And so it was.

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Fish Cake or Low-Carb Fish Burger?

What better way to power ourselves through the weeks than with a nice fish dinner? Unfortunately, most wallets do not support a steady supply of freshly caught whatever-the-trendy-restaurant-fish-is-at-the-moment. This does not, however, lead one to succumb to fish fingers. Even though I am sure there is a time and a place for reliving such frozen nostalgic goodness, I am even more certain that if you have 30 minutes of kitchen time, the tastiest and tangiest of all fish cakes can be on your plate in less time than a run to the supermarket's frozen aisle.

Fish cakes are what I dined on in university while caring for a well-off Jewish retiree, and they have always held this image for me. Food for discerning women.

I welcome a new age of fish cakes. In fact, I will start calling them fish burgers. I think more men will eat them this way. Burgers are manly. Burgers are burly. And since so many men I meet in Italy admit openly to being on a diet, they will also appreciate the bun-less low-carb aspect. It's a win-win. So while we know these are by definition fish cakes, just tell your family fish burgers are on the menu.

These are tangy. They've got zing from all angles. Horseradish, pickles, capers, and spicy peppers. Eaten with a fresh salad and a crisp, cold, mineraly glass of white wine, they go down with much more taste than any fish finger ever resembled. Fast, keeps the summer kitchen cool, budget-friendly, and most importantly, a fresh and bright taste with a crispy texture. Welcome, my new summer low-carb burgers. 

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Tapenade-Tuna Sandie

Looking to liven up sandwich time? In an effort to stretch the mid-week dollar, tuna is ending up back on my plate. This is not at all as depressing as it might sound. In fact, I look forward to tuna sandwiches as a simple and quick lunch that offers me those omegas and other fishy goodies, all in a can with a pop-top.

The saving grace, tapenade: a Provençal black olive spread. I simply cannot get enough of this tangy condiment. For years, a new jar would no sooner hit the shelf of my fridge before it was headed for the recycling bin...empty, and thoroughly enjoyed.

Here, tapenade livens up whatever best-quality tuna one can procure, married with a bit of capers and mustard, topped with vine-ripened tomatoes and crisp arugula, all stuffed in a fresh slice of focaccia bread. Heaven. For lunch. On a plate.

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Learning about Favas (and a Spring Pea-Fava Pesto)

Once, there was a recipe that looked oh-so-very-tasty. It was a pasta with a fava pesto sauce. Fava beans were beautifully photographed in the half-shell. Scattered across the brown paper bag they were purchased in, the green, slightly fuzzy, pods had been discarded and a steaming plate of pasta was in the forefront. I made it within days. And it sucked. I mean, it was so bitter even copious amounts of cheese (my usual fix-it) left me feeling pretty disappointed.

Still, ever curious about the world of favas, I did some asking around. Illumination my friends, pure fava illumination. There is a double shell. Yep. Now, if you want to eat them raw, snack-style, the double shell need not be removed. In fact, one doesn't even notice it. But if you want to cook them, even slightly, the outer jacket of the fava bean has got to go. The way to do this is get a pot of water boiling, and in the meantime, start popping the fava beans out of the pods. Then toss in the pot and boil for 1 minute. Have a bowl of ice water ready for when you scoop them out of the pot. You want to stop the cooking or it will be too difficult to peel. After cooled, strain from the water, and pop the bean in half to reveal the inner bean. This is what you want. The outer jackets can be tossed.

 

Now that you've done a bit of kitchen soul-searching to find your inner bean, feel free to stick it all in a food processor and mix up into a pesto. I had some fresh peas around, so I boiled them for about 5 minutes (along with the inner fava beans) to do a pesto with some basil and Pecorino cheese. It was really nice on top some simple fish fillets (with the old peas 'n carrots stand-by, which, at times, can fit the bill perfectly.) But the next day, mixed into a pot of some perfectly al dente-ed spaghetti, it turned transcendent. Now, unless you are deathly allergic to them, run, don't walk, and go get yourself some favas!

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Purple Potato Salad from the Sea

Insalata di Patate e Calamari was a dish discovered years ago. A light potato salad with baby squid and a black olive tapenade spread mixed into the dressing. The flavours were out of this world. It wasn't very pleasing to the eye, however, as the tapenade tinged the potatoes grey. Enter the purple potato. These babies do loose a bit of vibrancy when boiled, but when spritzed with the lemon afterwards, bounce right back to a startling violet hue. Perfect for salads.

I remember reading Rome-blogger Apron and Sneaker's post about her hunt for violet potatoes, and so when I stumbled upon them at a local market, I quickly nabbed a few packages. I new they were prime for salads. The memories of the calamari salad I'd made years ago had left quite the impression. It's the heavy dose of tapenade in the dressing that makes it stand out among potato salads. Zingy lemon and a bright black olive spread tie the potatoes and seafood together just so well.

I've used strictly calamari in the past, but this time went for a calamari-based seafood mix I'd picked up. The seafood is brought to life in a quick aromatic boil of wine and herbs, then cooled to be mixed with the potatoes. Not at all overly fishy for a salad, and would serve well as a light lunch or side to a grilled meaty main.

Next time violet potatoes present themselves, I'm trying Apron and Sneaker's salad with tomatoes, pancetta, and blue cheese. But for now, while biding my time for proper fresh tomatoes, this bright salad from the sea is just what the mid-winter blahs needs.

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Heart Healthy Fish {with Orange-Avocado Salsa}

Second in line in the Valentine's week of heart-healthy meals is a quick and easy dinner of pan-fried fish with a citrus salsa. It all went from pan to plate within 30 minutes. Because that's how eating healthy should be - manageable.

I am of the persuasion that most standard fish varieties taste great with a citrus salsa. Most recipes in this vein call for mahi-mahi. And while its sweetness certainly makes a good match, in my kitchen, this salsa has even graced the top of some cod. Snapper or bass I imagine would fit well, and even tuna would round out the flavours plus give all those tuna-y health benefits.

Whichever fish you chose, this is great in the winter using blood oranges if you luck out on finding a good avocado. Happy avocado hunting!

The heart-loving menu:

Brekkie: Muesli-Pancakes with Honeyed Berries

Lunch: Black Bean Chili with Swiss Chard 

Dinner: Pan-fried Fish with Blood Orange and Avocado Salsa

Dessert: Vanilla-Poached Fig, Cherry & Pistachio Parfait

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New Years Dinner {Pasta with Green Lipped Mussels}

Has the hype of 2012 fallen upon you yet?  Me? Ummm, not so much. Every year I find myself secretly looking for ways to avoid masses of people (and the crazy amateur pyrotechs among them...seriously almost said good-bye to a kneecap one year!) In the Czech Republic it's quite popular for anyone who no longer sees the appeal of rivers of cheap bubbly in the city center bars to hide away in a cottage in the mountains with friends. Good food and drink are brought, and games are played.

Wherever and however you bring in the new year, if you are looking for an easy and elegant New Years Eve meal, simply pick up a few ingredients that are a titch out of the ordinary, but keep the preparation and number of flavours limited. This guarantees a special dinner, without sweating in the kitchen for hours before a new beau arrives, or lugging multiple grocery bags up to the mountains for one dinner. 

Fish has such a history when it comes to New Years dinners, it's hard to want to pull away from it. Hunting down some New Zealand green-lipped mussels from your fishmonger (or in the Czech Republic, look in the Asian markets, like on Olomoucká street in Brno) makes for a definite treat. Using Italian squid ink pasta (spaghetti al Nero di Seppia) creates a striking visual contrast, and adds to the subtle depth of seafood flavour. I took the easy route and used already dyed spaghetti, but it's only a little bit more effort to buy a jar of the black dye from an Italian import shop along with some fresh pasta for a little DIY.

After the mussels and squid ink pasta are procured, the rest is a cinch. Garlic, shallots, tomatoes, white wine, and a hint of chili peppers make this a New Years dish that practically cooks itself! 

Another variation - with fresh fish and basil:

Italian Squid Ink Pasta with Sea Bass

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Sicilian Pasta {with Fennel, Sardines, and Saffron}

I had been tasting Sicily for years. It was salty and sweet. Simple and filling. Exotic, yet comforting. Lemony. Briney. Earthy. Sea-y. 

 Years before ever visiting the island below the boot, I was bumbling through Europe with my rucksack and met a Sicilian traveler in Dublin. I twisted his arm (read: offered to pay for dinner fixings) until he agreed to show me how to make a Sicilian national dish. Despite being a cheeky young thing, this guy knew his way around a kitchen. The result was, of course, sensational.

Very few dishes stand the test of time with me. This is one of them. I picked up a little cookbook in Sicily when I went there as the final destination of the mum-and-daughter trip (Vienna-Rome-Sicily.) The book has a simplified version of this, titled, "Bucatini Pasta with Sardines Left in the Sea." I can't really work out how, if you leave the sardines in the sea, they can get into the pasta. But they do, and in just the right amount. If you're a bit fickle around tiny tinned fish, do not fear this dish. The flavours do sound a bit, well, odd together (especially if you are one of those anti-raisin folks.) Yet it's passed the taste test on a variety of my impromptu dinning companions. It's a great last minute hit. Of course, that is, if you are like me and regularly keep bits like saffron and fennel seeds in the cupboard. 

On the way home from work, pop into a shop, grab yourself a nice big bulb of fresh fennel, a bottle of a dry white, and you are on your way to something special (especially if there is some lemoncello in your booze-cupboard, just waiting for this dish to be made so it can be your perfect dessert wine.) I swear, Sicilian lemons are what dreams are made of. They permeate nearly every dish to add just the perfect amount of brightness on the palate.

 
Last month, we spent an idyllic few days exploring just the northwestern part of the island. Here, the food displays prominent Arabic influences: saffron, raisins, pine nuts, couscous, and citrus (oh, those blood oranges!) Why, even looking over the city rooftops, I had a sudden feeling of Déja Vu, and felt I'd been whisked away back to Morocco. Given that I'm a sucker for North African cuisine, my stomach dictated we stick to the western part. Towards the East, I've heard the food has a significant Greek flair to it. Olives, capers, and pistachios are to be found. Luckily, the sweetened-ricotta stuffed cannoli and a vast terrain of gelatos and granitas can be discovered all over Sicily.



The city of Marsala makes and excellent base for exploring the northwest - good food, hiking, snorkeling, and best of all...people! We met some of the most welcoming people in this area. At the guesthouse Arkos Casa Vacanze, a small but stunning oasis of hospitality and vegetation, I ate. I mean, I ate like it was going out of style. 'Mamma Maria' cooked up amazing dinners for the guests, and her son Gregorio had such enthusiasm for the gardens he's developed. I could have had a full meal just grazing in that garden! Pictured above is their pasta with an almond-basil pesto. And next to it is the Sicilian oregano variety. It is the coolest little plant ever!

Sicily left me nourished, in so many ways. I hope this dish can provide some semblance of nourishment to others. There is such a unique and delicate balance of flavours, and it is so easy (and wallet-friendly) to make. The sardine flavour is lifted by the fennel and lemon. The raisins bring a bit of tangy sweetness, brought to earth by the saffron. Be sure to use a dry white wine, as a sweeter one would not work at all. 

(Note: If you cut the recipe in half, a great use of the other half of the sardine tin is a home-made Ceasar salad dressing for lunch later that week.)

And if you haven't already, throw some Paolo Conte on your grooveshark/pandora/whatever and you've got the perfect Italian cooking music.

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Lemongrass-Coconut Soup with Shrimp and Veg

Take someone who hasn't been able to get to a Thai restaurant for a very, very long time (me) and give them a freshly discovered source of lemongrass (and a few youtube videos on preparing this stuff) and the most fragrant and delicately infused coconut broth might just emerge.

This soup is an absolutely lovely way to use up some summer veg hanging out in the crisper. The rest of the ingredients I usually have in stock (when the cupboards are full that is) - save for the trip to the Vietnamese market for the lemongrass. I am told lemongrass freezes well, like ginger, so I may soon (theoretically) be making this on a whim.

 Coconut-based soups always sound a bit cloying to me, to be perfectly honest. This one, however, is one part coconut milk and two parts vegetable broth (plus all those spice goodies.) The result is a smooth oh-so-light-as-a-feather texture and flavours that go POW. Can you handle that?


The beauty of this recipe is that the broth bit is absolutely killer. The spice mix infuses its heady aroma for half and hour, and is then strained out to get a divinely silky-smooth broth. Any seafood/tofu/veg could be included in this soup. It really is that flexible...and good!




Disclaimer: this dish is a bit time consuming, so I would double the recipe if you've got room in the fridge or freezer. It also seems to use a minimum of three pots, so be nice to your dishwasher (aka dining companions) in advance.

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Italian Squid Ink Pasta with Sea Bass

It had been nearly six months since my last tomato.

Of course there'd been the tinned, jarred, and dried varieties. But nought a single fresh juicy tomato has passed through my lips - until today. I try to stick as best I can to a locavore philosophy year round. This challenge is made easier by Brno's main vegetable market, where most of the vendors label all their products according to country of origin. I don't know if this is mandated or not, but I tend to think not, as some of the stands are a bit more obscure in their labeling.


Most late-winter weeks I wander around the market scanning the cardboard signs for that elusive ČR label. Generally the veg comes from Italy, Spain or Greece. I try to ignore the tomatoes, as the mere sight of a seriously good looking bunch still on the vine makes me ache inside. I long. I lust. All winter long.

This last week was different. This last week I wanted to take part in the third Forever Nigella challenge by embracing Italian food. So I went to the market purposely looking for IT on the little cardboard signs. I decided to justify a brief detour from a commitment to local products in ode to Italy. For one meal only. So I have tomatoes now. And fresh basil.



During our last venture to the country shaped like a boot, hubs and I picked up some black squid ink pasta (Spaghetti Di Nero), which I've been saving for some worthwhile occasion. Well, I figure ushering in the end of winter eating makes for as good a reason as any.

The next step was to procure some fresh fish. A challenge in the Czech Republic (excluding Praha, of course) any time of year, at least for me, and at least as far as saltwater fish are concerned. Double the difficulty by adding in the translation from English to Czech. After spending a good chunk of my morning on the computer trying to find the Czech word for mullet, bream, or bass (the varieties suggested by Nigella) and the other part of the morning consulting with the hubs on the accuracy of such a translation, I finally sent him off to the fishmonger. He came home with a beautiful European Sea Bass (Mořský vlk.)


I marvelled, then I gulped. 'A WHOLE fish?' I asked. 'Well, yes, what did you expect?' Um, I don't know, skin-on fillets I suppose. I never actually handled a whole fish before. I always eyed up those impressive pics of whole-baked trout and so on, but never wandered into that territory myself.

Life goal #132 - make a meal starting with a whole fish. Check. 

I watched this video a few times and asked the hubs for some advice, and it all went pretty smoothly (and de-scaling that sucker was pretty cool!)

It was worth it. The flavours came together perfectly. The fresh basil was key. I kept adding more and more on my heaping plate as I was eating, as I usually do with parmesan. The black pasta had a very subtle flavour (owing to the dried and not fresh noodles) that added a bit of earthiness. The tomatoes are added in just at the end so they are perfectly firm. 

This will definitely tide me over until the Czech Republic heads into tomato season.

Edit: For a similar version using squid ink pasta, see the Pasta with Green-Lipped Mussels.

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Friday is for Fish (Tacos, that is)

Growing up in Wisconsin meant that Fridays were for fish. You know, the good 'ol tavern fish fry. It was usually perch or cod, if memory serves, all battered-up and eaten with fries, tartar sauce, and coleslaw. During Lent we ate this in the church cafeteria. But throughout the rest of the year, taverns competed to offer the best in the region. 

Then I moved to Seattle. I fell under the salmon spell for awhile and abandoned all thoughts of our river fishes. One day, I came home to my roommate who announced she had whipped up some fish tacos. What? Fish can be in a taco? My naivety shown through at that moment. Since then, however, I've been a full convert. 

Here is a recipe with the Wisconsin influence: beer-battered fish tacos with a coleslaw-like topping and a tartary sauce. It's my winter fish taco version since the tomatoes I use for a Pico de gallo salsa taste like cardboard right now.

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"7 Nights of Tapas" Recipe: Garlic Shrimp

Maybe it's the brief heat wave that's struck Brno lately (yesterday 8°C/46°F), or the Spanish store that I've just discovered, or an old comment requesting some appetizers. Or maybe the approaching Valentine's day is making me feel a little, well, sultry.

Whatever the case may be, I think all of us trying to ward off that February Feeling (you know, the day after a near balmy spring-like day where you could damn well smell the coming pea shoots and wild leeks in the air. Because the day after this day sticks you right back in the middle winter. And it just hurts all the more.) could use a bit of escapism. Thus...

7 NIGHTS OF TAPAS

This means that for the next 7 days/nights, I'll be posting some of my favourite classic Spanish tapas (small plates), made with the best of my ability considering the lack of some typical ingredients. If one is inclined to do the same, may I suggest ensuring you've got some smoked Spanish paprika and a good quality sea salt at hand. The rest can be more or less managed with runs to the local supermarket.

So go rent some Almodovar flicks, drink a Rioja or Tempranillo, wear deep red lipstick, and stick some classic Spanish guitar on your playlist and  create your own 7 Nights of Tapas...which, coincidentally, will end on Valentine's day. Thus allowing you to choose from a selection of tapas to nibble on while either romancing or kvetching (a far more popular V-day pursuit in the Czech realm) the night away.

7 Nights of Tapas:
1. Garlic Shrimp
2. Garlic Mushrooms
3. Spiced Roasted Almonds
4. Garbanzo Beans with Chorizo
5. Marinated Black Olives
6. Figgy Manchego and Jamon Toasts
7. Spinach (Almost/Vegetarian) Empanadas

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Recipe: Singapore Noodles

During the last few weeks, I've been slowly nursing the sauces I picked up at my last Vietnamese market stop. For this reason (and the fact that I can't get enough noodly dishes in the middle of winter) another shrimp curry makes it debut

Singapore noodles is a dish often found in Chinese restaurants as an inexpensive vegetarian entree. Basically it's like stir-fried rice, but with noodles. It is not, however, found in Singapore. It simply borrows the name based on an assumption that Singaporeans might eat something like this. And, according to wikipedia, "might have originated from an enterprising restaurateur eager to add a dash of exoticism to his menu."

This version here is based on shrimp, but any meat or lack there of would work equally well. The veg here is of the winter persuasion (i.e. canned and frozen) but really anything could be used. The spices and sauces are what defines the dish, and the Indian curry flavour strikes just right with the noodles.

This recipe was inspired by Nigella Lawson's Nigella Express and an epicurious recipe. I must say, this version did the trick of satisfying my Chinese take-out craving without the grease and MSG...and dare I say it was even more flavourful? Hmmm, I dare.


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The Vietnamese Market

I must confess - I have a deep enthusiasm for Vietnamese inspired food. I'm not sure what the root of this may be, as the closest I ever got to the country was a holiday in Thailand. Now, you might be thinking, eh, food wise, it's the same thing. But oh, it is so not. For me, Vietnamese food-love started about ten years ago while living in Seattle and frequenting a certain group of Pho restaurants on a bi-monthly basis to fill up on massive bowls of noodly goodness. While of course also indulging in the staples of spring rolls and bánh mi sandwiches, Pho remained my gateway drug.

After moving to the Czech Republic I was overjoyed to learn of its largest non-European immigrant population. Yep, you got it - the Vietnamese. And while there are a handful of social and integration issues here, I was really looking forward to some good food. But what? To my surprise I couldn't see any big windows with that sought-after word: Pho. At least, not outside of Prague, and not in the main city areas.

What I discovered was that there are some Vietnamese restaurants tucked away in some outlying city areas. In fact, I was in Karlovy Vary the first time I saw a sign for Pho. I don't think my husband has ever seen me so excited by a stairway descending into a dark doorway, opening into an dank and empty bar. But I was. And yes, I ate there. And it was pretty darn good. Fresh cilantro, lime, and all the expected sauces. I tried to graciously thank the proprietor in the best Czech I could muster up at the time. I felt he was doing such a great service by making the effort to gather together such hard-to-find ingredients. I know now that it's not as difficult as it seems, as many Czech cities have Vietnamese markets, which mostly sell cheap goods, but also some great nibbles and sauces.

Last week I ran over there to grab some cilantro, and I found a great big bag of shrimp for a fantastic price (along with some jackfruit chips as pictured, which held me over while this dish was simmering). For me, Shrimp + Cilantro = Red Curry. Always. It's simply the best way to highlight the cilantro flavour with the shrimp, but you can also make it with chicken, or tofu, or just increase the veggie amount.

Red Curry

1 garlic cloves

1 onion

1 shallot

2 tsp crushed kaffir lime leaves

1/2 tsp crushed red pepper (or minced chillies)

1/2 can coconut milk - divided

1 Tb red curry paste

1 Tb brown sugar

1 cup chopped veg (red bell pepper, carrots, eggplant, zucchini...whatev)

1/2 can red kidney beans

500 g (or 1 lb.) shrimp or chicken

1 Tb fish sauce (or a smidge less if you're using chicken)

1 can chopped tomatoes

handful of cilantro

1 limes worth of juice

Rice (jasmine or regular ol' white)

Finely chop the first 5 ingredients and saute in a big pan/wok 3 minutes. Add in HALF of the half can coconut milk and the curry paste and brown sugar. Mash paste into the bottom of the pan until all is mixed. Toss in the veg, beans, shrimp/meat, fish sauce and the rest of the coconut milk. After a few minutes add the tomatoes. Let simmer until shrimps are pinky all the way through, 5 - 7 minutes. Longer for chicken. If it starts looking dry, resist the urge to add more coconut milk. Stick that in the fridge to make coconut rice pudding some other day. Instead add a cup of chicken or veg stock (have a cup of boiling water ready and a corner of bullion cube nearby for when this moment arrives.). Top it off with the splash of lime juice and cilantro (I put TONS on and it's still not enough!). Eat with rice.

Dobrou Chut'/ Enjoy!
-- Jo